On Kangaroo, Pineapple Enzyme and Meatloaf

Last time I cooked kangaroo mince, I thought I’d try it Moroccan-style, by shaping it into meatballs, browning and slowcooking in sauce, like a lamb meatball tagine dish. It was a dismal failure—you could bounce the balls, they were so rubbery. Since then I have done a little research about meat proteins and game cooking, and decided on a new tack.

Preminced kangaroo is distinctive for a number of reasons. It has an extremely low fat content, but is still ‘marbled’ with connective tissue, which is rather stringy. It has a noticeable gamey odour that you don’t find in beef or lamb.
I had been reading about tenderizers, and noticed that certain fruiting plants contain enzymes (proteases) which break down proteins. One of these is pineapple (it’s enzyme is bromelin). I thought it might be interesting to see how it worked. After all, perhaps the fruity acid of pineapple might give stodgy old roo a flavour lift as well as softening that connective tissue. I noted that the enzyme is activated between 50C and 70C, so there’s no point using it in the 'frig as a marinade. But slow cooking could work. (The enzyme becomes deactivated at 100C, so canned pineapple  is ineffective). Perhaps meatloaf would be worth a try, thought I, giving minced roo another chance. If pineapple does anything it should be quite noticeable in meatloaf. And it would be easy to set up a side-by-side comparison with another mix, free of pineapple, but otherwise identical.

So this is what I did.  Kangaroo mince is readily available in supermarkets in 1 kilogram packs. Each meatloaf would therefore contain 500g mince. They would include onion and mushroom, which seem to commonly accompany game in other recipes. These I would precook, to both add browned flavours and to reduce their liquid content.
In contrast to my failed meatballs, the meatloaf would contain breadcrumbs. They would soak up any released liquid and so keep the loaf moist, and help avoid that rubbery texture that ruined the meatballs.
Some soy and garlic for extra flavour, to help balance the roo meat. And some sweet chilli sauce brushed on the outside of the loaf, to give a nice flavoured crust.
In one batch was 100g chopped pineapple, and in the other 100 grated apple, with a teaspoon of vinegar, to match the acid of the pineapple.
Both were cooked in identical glass terrine-sized dishes, side-by-side in a 170C oven. This would give the pineapple, buried within the meat, inside the glass, in the slow oven, plenty of time at the enzyme activation temperature, in order to do its work.

And it did its work. I took the knife to cut a slice, and tried to get it out of the dish. The loaf collapsed and had to be spooned out. The apple meatloaf, in contrast, sliced obediently and sat neatly beside the nasty mound on the plate.  A bit of probing with the fork, and we noticed how much the pineapple meat resembled canned dog-food. Trying to compare the flavours of both was very difficult, as the texture sensation was hard to get past. I did notice the acid in the pineapple was good, so made a mental note to increase the vinegar in the apple meatloaf.

So the conclusion to this culinary experiment is: pineapple enzyme can be a wicked tenderizer, but is totally unnecessary for minced kangaroo. This does however suggest a further experiment, involving a cut of kangaroo meat which could be rolled around pineapple, and slow roasted. Hmm.

Fortunately, our dog loves the pineapple meatloaf. And the other meatloaf is edible by humans, quite nice in fact. Being quite rich, you don’t need a large serve, which is probably a good thing for all sorts of reasons that I won’t go into here.
Below is the successful recipe, modified a little according to the test results.

Recipe for Kangaroo MeatLoaf,  Being Entirely Edible

500g kangaroo meat, minced
3tbs olive oil
150g mushrooms (3 large swiss browns), chopped in 1cm dice
1 small onion, choppped
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 cup coarse breadcrumbs (around 100g)
1 egg, beaten
1 apple, grated
2 tbs soy sauce
1 tbs white vinegar
½ tsp pepper
sweet chilli sauce

Into a moderately hot sauté pan put 2tbs olive oil with mushrooms. After 2 minutes, add another tablespoon of olive oil and the onion. Stir and cook on moderate heat until the mushrooms have dissipated much of their liquid, and have shrunk considerably. Stir in the garlic. Remove from the pan and let it cool slightly.
Into a large mixing bowl tip breadcrumbs, mushroom mix, apple, vinegar, soy sauce and pepper. Stir until well mixed. Add kangaroo and combine well with your hands, to make a cohesive mixture.
Put a sheet of baking paper into an oven pan. Put the mix into a loaf tin, then invert the shaped loaf onto the baking paper, removing the tin.  Brush all surfaces of the loaf with chilli sauce.
Bake in a 180C oven until the internal temperature reaches 70C, around 45 minutes.
Remove from oven, cover with foil and let sit for 10 minutes before slicing.
Good with crispy sautéd potatoes and green salad.

 

Filed under  //  Jan '10   recipes  
Comments (2)
Posted

Vineleaf Rolls - think nori rolls, with mid-east flavours

 Another spring /early summer recipe, when the vine is covered in succulent leaves.
Take your time with this recipe, so that you enjoy all the handling, which is sort-of relaxing. Except for the rice, which must be prepared precisely, the rest of the recipe is fairly flexible. Only sushi rice is suitable. You will need a bamboo nori roll mat (sushi mat). If you’ve never made nori rolls before, find an instructional video on the internet, or take a peak at how it’s done in a Japanese take-away, before starting.
The Australian tablespoon measures 4 tsp. The quantities in this recipe revolve around the magic number 300. Using my 2cup measure, I intended to measure 1 cup rice and it happened to pour up to the 300ml mark.I had some leftover cooked borlotti beans, that when measured happened to be 300ml. And when I tumbled in the mint and parsley they happened to be about 300ml each. Go figure! 
I used lime, but lemon would be fine.You will need to have soaked the dried beans, cooked and cooled them. (I keep leftover beans in the freezer). Alternatively you can open a can. This recipe made plenty for four people as a light meal.

Go into the garden and pick 20 large young leaves from your grapevine (or your neighbour’s), 2 or 3 lemons or limes, large handfuls of parsely and mint.  Don’t forget to say hello to the chooks and give them some fresh leaves from your garden.

Thinly peel half a telegraph cucumber, or Lebanese cucumber. Cut along the whole length into very fine fingers, discarding the seeds.  Salt it generously and let it sit to soften in a colander for 30 mins.

In a saucepan, heat 300ml sushi rice, 450ml water, 10 allspice berries,10 peppercorns and a stick of cinnamon. When just boiling, cover and reduce heat to very low and simmmer 12 to 14 minutes. Take off the heat and leave covered 10 mins to cool.
While the rice is still warm, remove the berries and stick from the top, tip it into a bowl and gently combine it with 3tbs lime juice, 1 tbs castor sugar, 1/2tsp salt, removing any remaining berries. Let it cool further.

Leaving the stalks on, plunge the vine leaves into a large pot of boiling water, slosh them around a bit, so that the water moves freely between the leaves. Bring it back the boil, simmer 2 mins. Remove to a colander and refresh in cold water. (All this used water is handy for pre-rinsing your dirty dishes.)

Make a small quantity of red paste using 2 tbs tomato paste, ¼ tsp freshly ground allspice, plus the finely shredded rind and juice (about a tablespoon) from one small lime.
Make a much larger quantity of green paste. Measure about 300ml cold pre-cooked beans, such as borlotti, cannellini or lima. Whizz together the beans, a loose cup each of fresh parsley and mint, 4 tbs olive oil, 2 tbs nuts and a pinch of salt.  It should be a spreadable lump when finished.

Cut some very thin strips from a half a red onion or salad onion. Cut any rings in half and separate into strands.
Wash the salt from the cucumber and dry it on paper towel.

Lay four or more vine leaves, veins up, on the flat side of your bamboo nori roll mat (bamboo sticks going crosswise). With scissors, snip off the leaf stems at the base. You need to partly overlap the leaves to avoid gaps. (Don’t worry too much about overhang at the side edges of the mat – they can be cut off the made-up roll if you are fussy.)
Make 3 to 4 vine-leaf wrapped logs, just as you would for Japanese nori rolls.  Spread your rice out over the leaves, around a cup for each log, on which you spread a rounded tsp of red paste as a thin ribbon from side to side. Top that with slivers of onion, running edge to edge, generous dollopings of green paste, spread evenly, and slivers of cucumber. Roll up and refrigerate.
When all the logs are made, slice them into discs using a sharp, large, wetted knife. You will need to wipe and wet the knife often. Place on a serving platter and refrigerate. They can be served as is, or with your best olive oil on the side for dipping.

I would have taken a photo, but the whole thing was demolished before I bothered to get the camera. The rolls are very pretty. Next time, I’ll add photos to this post.

 

Filed under  //  Dec 09   recipes  
Comments (5)
Posted

It's spring in Australia, so stuff some vine leaves

Pick young medium-sized grapevine leaves, even ornamental grapes will do—about an ice-cream tub full.
Stack them face down, stalks aligned.  Use the stalks to hold the bunch while rinsing.

 Filling:  Mix together...

  • ¾C washed long-grain rice
  • 2 finely chopped tomatoes
  • Half an onion, chopped
  • ½C each chopped mint & parsley
  • ½ tsp each freshly-ground allspice & pepper
  • ½ tsp salt
  • Juice from a lemon (or lime)
  • 3 tbs olive oil

To soften the leaves, blanch them for a few seconds in a pot of boiling water (or carefully pour a kettle-full over them).  Place in drainer, face-down.
Line a (lidded) medium frypan (28cm) with vine leaves, to prevent sticking.
Spread a few leaves out on the bench, face down (veins up) stalk pointing left. Snip off the stalks with scissors.
Place 1tsp of filling towards the stalk end of each leaf and flatten it out a bit.
Start rolling up the leaf from the side closest to you. Fold in the point of the leaf (from the right). Continue rolling to just past the centre, fold in the base of the leaf (from the left), then complete the roll. (Once you’ve done a few, this is easy.)
You should have a neat roll about 1cm x 6cm. Place it into the frypan, seam underneath.
Snugly fill the pan with rolls. Sprinkle with another lemon, and barely cover the rolls with water.
Put an upturned plate onto the rolls, to hold them in place.
Bring the pan gently to the boil. Place the lid on the pan and drop the heat to minimum. Simmer 50mins to 1hour. 
Remove lid and cool in the pan 10 minutes.
Carefully upturn the rolls onto a plate. They can be eaten warm or cool, drizzled with your best olive oil.

 

Filed under  //  recipes  
Comments (0)
Posted